This is a short flight, hardly an hour to get from Lima at sea level to Cusco 10 000 feet high in the Andes. Leaving the overcast skies and muggy sprawl of Lima behind, the plane climbed slowly. Hadn't it been for the blind windows, I would have seen more of the incredibly beautiful mountain ranges below. But even so, out of the few square inches of unscratched window, I saw snow-covered mountains, completely untouched, with no settlements, roads or any sign of life. These were the majestic Andes; the mountains that were home to the Inca and their modern-day descendents. The country below me had been invaded by the Conquistadors of Spain. They had come from the Old World in the 1500s, sent abroad by their king to find glory and riches on behalf of crown and church. A mere couple dozen men and their horses, lead by Francisco Pizarro, traveled from Ecuador to the North deep into Inca territory, hoping to find treasures. It is a rather amazing thought when one sees the landscape. It appears so insurmountable, so forbidding. It occurs to me that these invaders must have been driven by something that is difficult to fathom. What is it that made this handful of people venture into such inhospitable territory? For sure, they must have been hard-core soldiers and adventurers, but what inticements lured them into this? Was it blind obedience, gold fever or the promise of land and higher status? Or was it the indoctrination of the church to "save the souls" of natives in foreign lands? Whatever their motivations may have been, I can safely make this observation: the task of crossing the mountains to reach the fabled city of Cusco was formidable. Quite possibly, they didn't know how treacherous the terrain was, but once on their way, they persevered. If I recall Peruvian history correctly, they didn't make it on their first attempt, but had to return a second time before they actually reached Cusco, the continent's oldest, continuously inhabited city, in the year 1533.
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Cusco, finally! I had felt drawn to it by a dream I had had, in which I saw myself in a central square, flanked by ornate cathedrals, with rows of arcades in front of Spanish-style buildings. The scenery could have been found in any former Spanish colony, even Spain itself. But as I soon was to find out, my dream's images found their real-life counterpart in Cusco's main Plaza, the Plaza de Armas.


"The Inca built a network of four major roads
that connected their capitol Cusco with the entire Empire.
We know of approximately 14 000 miles of charted roads."
Legend has it that the Inca king Manco Capac, "the Son of the Sun", founded Cusco around the twelfth century. Cusco became "the Earth's Navel" and for hundreds of years, was the center of the Western hemisphere's most powerful empire. Nowadays, it is a small and quiet town in spite of being a tourist center and base for excursions to the ruins of Machu Picchu. Cobbled streets run throughout the city, lined by massive Inca-built walls. These walls are examples of the craftsmanship of Inca stonemasons. Hardly a sheet of paper can be inserted between the rows of stones. The precision with which the stones were hewn is astonishing given the simplicity of Inca tools. Seamlessly constructed, these walls formed foundations for many of the homes built under the conquistadors.

It is an interesting experience to spend a few days in one of these colonial homes. Several throughout the city have been converted into hotels, among them the Royal Inca I and Royal Inca II in the heart of the old town. In typical Spanish style, the multi-storied homes were configured around an inner courtyard. Balconies off the upper floors overlook this courtyard. Each room has a unique decor and a special medieval ambience. Quite obviously, these were "villas" of the Nouveaux Riches back in the first century after conquest. Oil portraits of the original owners still grace the stucco-covered walls, and archways built of sandstone are reminiscent of European castles and monasteries. The chambers have retained much of their original character as boudoirs and living rooms. Wide stone staircases have been worn down over the centuries, smooth and shiny from heavy use.

Llamas & Ruins

Onionsellers

"The Inca used multi-colored knotted cords to keep records.
A written language was not known. By means of these cords,
they kept track of everything in their Empire:
Crops, population, taxes, weapons were among the items recorded"
Cusco's importance waned rather quickly after the invasion. The Spaniards were a seafaring nation, and needed a capitol by the sea. Once looted of the gold and silver treasures, Cusco lost its luster for the Spaniards. Most of the Inca's treasures were shipped to the King and Queen of Spain who had them melted down because they represented heathen gods. One wants to add almost gleefully that all the precious metal that was taken out of Peru, and all the artifacts that were melted down, created such a glut of gold and silver in the Old World that it lead to a deep economic recession there. Not surprisingly, even today, Cusco has nothing noteworthy on display in its regional History Museum. Actually, the word "museum" is a bit of an exaggeration. Other than a careless assemblage of display cases with objects not good enough for the museums in Lima, there is hardly anything in this desolate, poorly kept place. However, it does provide employment for numerous guards, their purpose clearly lost on me.

However, there is no shortage of Colonial Art in Cusco. The finest of it is displayed in the town's main cathedral on the Plaza de Armas. There are many fine examples of the "Cusco School" of painting, which combines European styles with Indian influence. A wooden and a silver altar, as well as a beautifully carved choir can be seen here. During hours of worship, the cathedral is officially closed to tourists.

There are still a number of well-preserved Inca ruins within Cusco. The main ruin is Coricancha, whose base forms the Church of Santo Domingo. It used to be an important Inca temple, its walls covered with gold. Curved walls and trapezoidal architecture with walls that are perfectly tapered upwards are in a part of the temple dedicated to the Stars and the Moon. Smaller temples were dedicated to Thunder and Rainbow. Soon after the conquest, the precious metals decorating the walls appropriated and melted down, the temple was gifted to the Dominicans, who own it to this day.

Cusco is ideally situated as a center from which excursions to other interesting sites can be made, from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu, rafting trips on the Urubamba River to shopping for crafts in village markets.


"The Inca called themselves "Children of the Sun"
They called their Sun God "Apu Inti"


The Sacred Valley is the first stop for explorations in Cusco's vicinity. The valley lies about 20 miles north of Cusco, and can easily be reached by bus, with a tour company, or by taxi, if a day trip is negotiated beforehand. Not only does it help the body acclimate to the elevation (it is roughly 1800 feet /600 meters below the altitude of Cusco), it combines sightseeing, exploration of ruins, and shopping for indigenous crafts with an introduction to hiking. The entire drive is spellbinding, with terraced mountains rising up from the cultivated river valley.


"For the Inca, the Moon gave light to the earth at night
The Moon was the wife of the Sun
Many temples were built to honor it"
If you are neither a rock climber nor have the conditioning of a long-distance runner, but are contemplating hiking the "Inca Trail", test yourself here first. Starting out in the village of Pisac, there are two ways to spend an entire day or more: On any Sunday, the bustling market comes alive in this colonial village. Approaching Pisac, a large area of bright blue tarps is visible from afar. These are the tarps sheltering the hundreds of merchants' booths from the sun. Artisans from the entire valley sell their wares here. Take a close look at the pottery. It is fired at low temperatures, therefore easy to break. If you want to take your chances anyway (or if you arrived with a good supply of blisterpack), you will find small treasures. Wall plates, vases and containers in the ancient shapes of Inca beer vessels are commonly offered. All are hand painted, often in rich, earthy shades of browns and rusts, in filigree-like geometric designs. Others will be painted with brightly colored mythical scenes. Furthermore, weavings, alpaca sweaters and blankets are widely sold. Watch the quality, and try not to overpay.

A large section of the market is dedicated to fruits and vegetables. This part is the most native, authentic section, catering to the locals. Women from the valley farms display produce that towers in front of them in bright mounds. Bundles of red onions with their green stalks still attached lay alongside carrots, tomatoes and overripe bananas. Big sacks of potatoes of all varieties wait for buyers. Peru is the "Land of the Potato", and about forty varieties, even blue ones, make it a staple ingredient in meals. It is fun to watch the farmwomen. The young ones often have their babies tied to their backs in bright shawls, the little heads contentedly looking out, or napping while their mothers attend to business. The women all wear the typical mid-length skirts with petticoats underneath to give them a round, almost barrel-like appearance. Their long hair is separated into two thick, shiny braids hanging down to their waist. Most of them wear hats. Various kinds of food are prepared in open-air stalls, and small cafes catering to tourists are on the periphery of the main plaza. Wear good walking shoes here; the lanes are all cobbled with small, round river rock.


" For the Inca, Thunder was the God of Rain
They believed that he carried a sling.
When he cracked it, it made the sound of thunder"

After the visit to Pisac market, the ruins perched about 1800 feet (600m) above town are a must. The Pisac fortress and its many stone terraces is one of the most beautiful in the Sacred Valley. It is here that one can test one's mettle and endurance before braving more strenuous treks, like the entire Inca Trail. From the plaza in town, there is a footpath up to the ruins. The hike takes about 1 1/2 hours, going steadily upward toward the ruins. Some of the walk will be along a narrow path, often hardly wider than one foot, with steep cliffs dropping off to one side. This is not for the faint of heart, but the sweeping view of the well-maintained terraces makes it well worth it. It is here that I gauged my stamina as "not being up to par", my legs feeling increasingly more like lead, my heart beating a staccato rhythm and my lungs straining for oxygen, not to mention spells of severe vertigo! By the time I reached the ruins, my ambition had decidedly been reduced. But, once there, you simply have to keep climbing. Not that it gets any easier, throughout the ruins, steep stairways have to be navigated. Right around that time, I decided that the "Inca Trail is not for me". My hat is off to the hikers who manage to do the trail, all 20 miles (33 km) of it. I, however, decided that this hike was enough!


"The Inca worshipped "Mother Earth"
by placing large rocks in their fields for altars,
asking "Panchamama" to keep their lands fertile"
Sometimes, "this is enough" is easier said than done. My next excursion was to Machu Picchu, the mysterious mountaintop city, and once more a place for a workout, this time with a total of 3000 stairs! From Cusco, it is a beautiful 3 1/2-hour trainride along the whitewaters of the Urubamba River. For train buffs, navigating the curves out of Cusco is fascinating. The terrain is so steep that the train has to manage through four back-and-forth switchbacks, the city visible below. It is a leisurely, fun voyage through lush, tropical vegetation against the backdrop of snow-covered mountains. The final stop is at Puentes Ruinas below the ruins. Don't think that you need to purchase a "tour" to Machu Picchu. It is offered at every corner in Cusco, yet a simple combination ticket that covers round trip train, bus from Puentes Ruinas to the entrance of Machu Picchu, as well as the entrance fee is available upon request. Having visited twice, once with a guided tour and once by myself, I definitely recommend that you go alone. Take a good guidebook that explains the various sections of Machu Picchu. You will find that you have a definite advantage over the crowds that strain to hear their guide. You will see more, do it at your leisure and without having to peak over anyone's shoulders.

Arriving at Puentes Ruinas, get out and just follow the crowd. There is a new path from the station to the bus stop, through an area of souvenir stalls. The roughly 15 minute bus ride is one of the more 'breathtaking' rides you can imagine. A steep, narrow road winds along treacherous cliffs and drop-offs toward the entrance of Machu Picchu. It is unpaved and dusty. With the constant bus traffic up and down the mountainside, it is nearly impossible to do any road repair, so be forewarned about the road condition.


"The Inca believed that every star in the sky was a deity
that protected and overlooked the animals roaming the earth"
Hiram Bingham discovered Machu Picchu in the year 1911. The local descendants of the Inca knew about the ruins, but for centuries, especially under the Spanish, the location was kept a secret. Bingham, a historian, had been searching for the lost city of Vilcabamba but found Machu Picchu instead. The entire site was completely overgrown then, and much work had to be done over many years to allow the ruins to be seen in their current condition. The purpose for the settlement is unknown to this day. There are various theories, from legendary fortress to home of the women "keepers of the sun" (based on the discovery of over fifty burial sites, most of which contained female skeletons.) Much of the exquisite stonework is ornamental, there are altars and an intricate canal system, and it is assumed that Machu Picchu was indeed a sacred ceremonial site. Whatever the original function of this inaccessible city was, scholars have concluded that Machu Picchu flourished during the classical Inca period (1438 to 1532), a conclusion they reached based on discoveries of pottery and metal objects.

How can I best describe Machu Picchu? It is a sprawling set of ruins, surrounded by lushly green hills that jet out all around as far as the eye can see. The Inca Trail leads right up to the southwestern entry, where agricultural terraces extend as far as the ruins, or urban sector, to the East. The remains of the buildings have been identified as ceremonial baths, temples, a royal palace, plazas, and residential as well as industrial sections. One of the most popular spots within Machu Picchu is a major Inca shrine called the "Inti Huatana". It is a carved rock on top of a hill, used by Inca astronomers to tell the solstices. Many visitors can be observed touching the rock, or holding flat palms just an inch above its surface. It is believed that energy is especially powerful around this stone, and that it can be felt by the sensitive as a subtle resistance.

The setting for the ruins is breathtaking. Easily, half a day can be spent here, wandering around and enjoying the incredible views down into the valley. Looking around, a quiet corner may be found, from which one can imagine who lived here and what it may have been like when the walls were solid, roofs thatched with straw, and lanes were inhabited with brightly clad people.

It's been many centuries since the Inca kingdom was at its height. What has endured are the Andes, the jungle, rivers, the Sacred Valley. I've always attempted to find an especially befitting attribute when thinking of a country. Peru strikes me as wild, untamed and maybe untamable. I listen to the music and see the rhythmic dances of the locals. It is a light-hearted music, one that lets listeners soar with it, like the famed condor that circles high above. Descendants of the Inca still live in these mountains, along these rivers, cultivating terraces, stoically attempting to preserve their way of life in spite of many outside influences. These influences are everywhere, starting with the sprawling capitol Lima, which has attracted country people in hopes of finding work. They are apparent in inland jungles fought over by environmentalists who would like to maintain the abundant wildlife in national parks and developers, who would like to build modern hotels for tourists. As a result, indigenous tribes feel they often are left out of the decision making process, with changes coming from quarters insensitive to their needs. At historic landmarks like Machu Picchu, helicopters are allowed to fly in tourists, thereby disturbing not only the peaceful ambience of the ruins, but potentially damaging them. Examples like these make me express the hope that travelers consider it a privilege to see this spectacular site and "tread softly", while the powers in charge of tourism take a less shortsighted approach, to preserve this heritage not only for visitors who come from all corners of the world, but for their own people. (August 1999)

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Addendum 2005:
In May 2000, the government of Peru decided to pass a new law that will limit visitors on the overburdened Inca Trail. As of mid-2005, the number of people traveling on the trail's six routes will be limited to 500, down from an average of 600-650 hikers (and during the busiest month -August- 1000/day). The permit to hike the trails in mid 2005 was US $70 per person, for a 4-day trek. Additional days cost extra. Check "LONELY PLANET - Peru ", "ROUGH GUIDES - Peru" & other travel guides for details. Book early if you plan on hiking during the busy months.